A month-by-month guide to getting your lawn in shape after winter. Every task, in the right order, at the right time.
Spring is the most important season for setting your lawn up for success. The work you do in March, April, and May determines how your lawn looks and performs all summer long.
But timing matters. Apply pre-emergent too late and crabgrass takes over. Fertilize too early and you stress weak roots. This checklist puts every task in the right month so you can work with your lawn, not against it.
The tasks below are tailored for cool-season lawns in the northern United States. If you have a warm-season lawn (Bermuda, zoysia, St. Augustine), shift the timeline forward by 4\u20136 weeks.
Rake and clean up debris
Remove leaves, sticks, and dead grass that accumulated over winter. This prevents mold and allows sunlight to reach the soil.
Inspect for snow mold or damage
Look for matted, circular gray or pink patches. Gently rake affected areas to promote airflow and drying.
Sharpen mower blades
Dull blades tear grass instead of cutting it, leaving ragged tips that turn brown and invite disease.
Apply pre-emergent herbicide
Apply when soil temps reach 55°F for 3 consecutive days. This prevents crabgrass and other annual weeds from germinating.
Test your soil
Send a sample to your local extension office. Results guide your fertilizer and lime applications for the rest of the year.
First mow of the season
Set your mower to 3–3.5 inches. Never cut more than one-third of the blade height at a time.
Apply early spring fertilizer
Use a balanced fertilizer (like 32-0-4) to promote green-up and root development after dormancy.
Core aerate compacted areas
Aeration relieves soil compaction and allows water, air, and nutrients to reach the root zone. Best for cool-season grasses now.
Overseed thin or bare spots
After aerating, spread seed over thin areas. Keep the soil moist until germination, typically 7–14 days.
Check irrigation system
Turn on your sprinklers and inspect each zone for broken heads, leaks, or misaligned coverage.
Begin regular mowing schedule
Mow weekly or as needed. Keep cool-season grasses at 3–4 inches to shade roots and retain moisture.
Apply weed-and-feed if needed
If broadleaf weeds are actively growing, a weed-and-feed product tackles both. Apply when temps are between 60–90°F.
Dethatch if thatch exceeds ½ inch
Thatch thicker than half an inch blocks water and fertilizer. Use a power dethatcher or dethatching rake.
Monitor for grub activity
Check for spongy spots or patches that lift like carpet. Treat with a grub control product if you find more than 10 grubs per square foot.
Adjust watering schedule
Lawns need about 1–1.5 inches of water per week including rainfall. Water deeply and infrequently, ideally early morning.
Need to know how much fertilizer or seed to buy? Fertilizer calculator → · Seed calculator →
Do not rush the first mow. Wait until your grass is actively growing and at least 3 inches tall before the first cut. Mowing dormant or semi-dormant grass stresses it and slows spring green-up.
Track soil temperature, not air temperature. Soil temperature drives seed germination and weed emergence. A simple soil thermometer from any garden center will tell you when it is truly time to act. Pre-emergent goes down at 55\u00B0F soil temp.
Measure your lawn before buying products. Guessing your square footage leads to buying too much or too little of everything \u2014 fertilizer, seed, weed control. Use LotSite to measure your actual lawn area so every purchase is accurate.
Leave grass clippings on the lawn. Mulching clippings returns nitrogen and organic matter to the soil. It is free fertilizer. Only bag clippings if the lawn is diseased or if clumps are smothering the grass.
Enter your address to get your exact lawn area — so every spring purchase is the right amount.
Then use our fertilizer calculator or seed calculator to get exact quantities.